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In our house, Ramadan has a specific rhythm. My mother prepares the dates and soup. My father sets the table. And I am responsible for the chai. FiLLi Zafran, specifically — nothing else is accepted. I have tried to substitute it once. My younger brother noticed on the first sip and refused to drink it. He was twelve. The Zafran has this quality where it feels like it belongs at iftar — the saffron is warm and celebratory, the sweetness is gentle, and the colour looks like liquid gold in the glass. We go through three flasks during Ramadan. By the end of the month, the staff at our nearest FiLLi greet us by name.