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I had been in Dubai for exactly three days. I was jetlagged, homesick, and standing in JLT at 6 AM because I could not sleep. A colleague had told me "just go to FiLLi" like it was obvious advice — the way someone might say "just breathe." I ordered a karak because it was the first thing on the menu. The cup was small and the colour was deep amber, almost caramel. The first sip was sweet, strong, and impossibly smooth — the kind of flavour that makes you close your eyes. I have been back every morning since. That was four years ago.